Wednesday, 30 March 2011

Copland Track Weekend 25/3-27/3

Another fantastic weekend has passed and the dynamic NZedland environment has once again surprised and delighted me. The crew this weekend was:

Matthew (USA)
Ferran (Spain)
Carmen (Spain)
Maria (Spain)
Barbara (Poland)
Jan (Sweden)

The mission was to drive 6 hours to Westland National Park to conquer the first leg of the Copland track, spend a night at the Welcome Hut Flat, and return, totalling a 14 hour journey. The dillemna was that I had to take an online test between 4-6 pm on Friday night, and we had to leave on Friday to be ready to do the hike on Saturday morning. The solution: I found an internet cafe on the way to the west coast and we arrived there around 4 pm on Friday. However, the internet at this cafe did not allow cookies, which were required for the completion of the exam, but this problem was quickly solved as we found a library in town (Alexandra) that allowed completion of the very easy exam (especially after constant tutoring from mis amigos de barcelona). After the exam we were back on the road to Fox Glacier, where we were planning on freedom camping (camping on some random grass and hoping no one from the DoC catches us).

After dinner in the rain under a gas station cover (precooked pasta with bread and sauce), we set out on the road again behind our fearless (and at the time clueless) driver Ferran. After 100km of driving south instead of north, we arrived at a dead end at Jackson Bay on a random penninsula, penguin crossing signs included. The group took this "minor" detor with humor and we embarked back to the gas station where the wrong turn was made. This experience supplied the group with endless cracks and jokes for the rest of the trip.

Dinner at the gas station
Our freedom campsite

Upon arrival, we find a nice hidden spot to freedom camp, and crammed all 6 of us into the above tent. Needless to say, it was warm, and eventually rather odorous. Luckily, we were no discovered by the authorities and spent the night like a clan of gypsies. Early the next morning we headed to check out Fox Glacier:



Unsettlingly realistic fake ranger warning viewers not to go further

Result of walking beyond fake ranger
We were at the Copland track head by 12 pm, with thousands of sandflies (biting bugs worse than mosquitoes in Chicago summer, I promise) and 17km ahead of us- an expected 6 hour hike. It was already raining, but warm, and we set out. The girls tried hard not to get their shoes wet, but soon realized that wet boots were inevitable, as we had to cross many rivers by foot.

Myself, Ferran, Jan, Maria, and Carmen (Barbara had a sweet camera and took most of the pics)

Super cute pic of Ferran, Jan and I

I was astonished by the tropical appearance of the forest here- stark contrast to the alpine forests that I had previously encountered

There were countless beautiful waterfalls and creeks with fresh, safe, drinking water! What a contrast to the states!

Awesome wire bridge across a river valley (one of two)

View from the wire bridge- so fun!

Us hiking in the bottom right


Hard to decide which is more beautiful- the forest or my face?
It rained most of the day, but it enhanced the experience of the tropical forest and allowed the waterfalls to flow rapidly. The hike was fairly easy, with little climbing, but 6 hours was a long and rewarding. We arrived at Welcome Hut Flat around 7 and were surprised at how luxurious the flat quarters were. The flat warden gave us a speech about the flat and i felt like I was at a resort. The best part of it- NATURAL HOT POOLS 1 minute from the flat. What a glorious surprised after a day of hiking and sore feet. We promptly changed and headed to the hot pools!

The group at the hot pools! Barabara on far right
There were 3 pools with different temps in each. This one was perfect! Around 52 C I believe

Here is the other hot pool with a reaasonable temp. One of the pools was scorching, and actually fed hot water into the other to keep them warm- I was amazed at the natural design!

The pools are heated by rain water going on a 200 year journey through the earth's crust and up a fault line, where friction between slowly moving plates heats the water as it rises to the surfaces and bubbles up into the pools

The scroching hot water flowing into the other pools

Welcome Flat Hut (me standing on porch) -mmh, how convenient


Livin the good life
 The next morning we all woke up and tramped back to the car. It poured all day, but as earlier, it was warm and the rain made the trip more exciting. Jan and I spent some time taking sweet pics on the wire bridges, and I will get those up as soon as he send sthem to me. Everyone in the group had so much fun and everyone got along very well. At the end of the tramp, the river that we crossed right after the car park was flooded, and it was quite an exciting challenge to find a way to safely cross the river together. Luckily, we all knew what we were doing an made it back safe to the car. The ride back was super smelly and wet, but fun as usual. Unfortunately, we did not stop in Jackson Bay on the way home. :(


Sweet pic of one of the wire bridges on the rainy trek back
Another cool creek
This weekend I am going with Ferran and two girls from Poland who I have not met to do the Kepler Track- one of the NZ Great Walks. I am very excited, and if you would like to learn about the trakc visit this site:
I will be leaving Thursday at 3pm and returning on Sunday night! Love and miss you all!
Matthew
Fabulous Fox glacier on a cloudy day

Thursday, 24 March 2011

Kea Bird Research (Long) Weekend

           I must say that I feel very blessed to have had such a great weekend. We left at 9 am on Friday morning and drove 4 and 1/2 hours past Queenstown and Glenorchy on the West Coast to Mt. Aspiring National Park. The research team consisted of Nick, the PhD Zoology student who was running the whole study, Rosie, a kiwi Anthropology senior, and myself. Nick is from Switzerland originally but has been in NZ doing his PhD for a year so far, returning to study after a visit 6 years ago. Fortunately for myself, he was raised in the French-speaking part of Switzerland in the southwest (north eastern areas speak German, about 60% of the country, and southeastern regions speak Italian, and German is used throughout the government). So, I was able to practice my french with him throughout the 5 day period where all we really did was hike, catch Kea, and talk. The trip was quite a success, not only because of the beautiful weather that we experienced and the gorgeous valley that was our home for 5 days, but we ended up catching 12 Keas and exceeding Nick's "dream goal" of ten!

          The hike to Shelter Rock Hut, where we ended up staying the whole weekend due to high concentration of Kea in the area, took about 5 hours. The next morning, I was woken at 6 am by a call that served as my alarm clock for the next 4 mornings- (with french accent) "Matthew! I got one!". This first morning, an old man who was also sleeping in the hut jumped out of bed at the sight of Nick dangling a Kea from a rope and screamed at Nick to "let it go! its just a bloody bird!" thinking that we were catching Kea for amusment. Nick explained himself, as he had to do many times throughout the trip, but it was nice to see that the kiwis were all very protective of their wildlife.

          The first time I held the Kea I was too cold and tired to understand how lucky I was, but as I continued to handle the birds, I realized how beautiful they were and found a growing fascination for the birds' anatomy and lifestyles. Kea birds are indigenous parrots to New Zealand. They are an endagered species, and very little is known about them, but it is estimated that there are between 2,000 and 5,000 in all of NZ. They have gorgeous color in their feathers, with a forest green base, turqoise and light blue fade on the tail and wing feathers, and a rainbow of red and yellow below the wings. Holding the birds by the neck/beak and feet allowed us to control the brids completely without putting them in danger or ourselves in danger of getting bit! Rosie did get bit and a Kea really scraped her pinky apart, causing her to become a bit timid around the birds and allowing me hold all of the birds as Nick completed his examinations. It was very interesting to feel and see the anatomy of the bird's beak, head, and wierd parrot tongue, specifically in regards to how the hard beak (made of cells similar to those in finger nails) attaches to the birds skull and skin. The reptilian feet and claws were also very interesting, and I was grateful to find that they did not use their claws to attack prey, or myself, as birds of prey do.

           It was not until after I had agreed to help Nick that I realized that his research related very closely to my own studies. His purpose for catching the birds and taking their blood was to study the population genetics of the Kea. He is studying the birds' DNA to determine where the birds might have migrated from, and how they have seperated and clustered as they have throughout the islands. In the end, he would  like to create a sort of lineage tree using differences in DNA to characterise the Kea populations. He will use this same information to study the social structure of the Keas. For instance, since we caught many birds within one group,. he can sutdy their DNA to determine how those within the group are related to eachother. This will help him to understand the social patterns amongst the birds. Despite their popularity and prevelance in NZ, there has not been many studies conducted on the Kea, so Nick is pioneering this field in a way. After doing this for a year, Nick can perfectly perform a Kea call (though they have many, many different, loud noises), and from my observations, he has become obsessed with the birds to the point of halucinating and hearing Kea calls in his head all day and night. All of his research is being done to contribute to knowledge useful for conservation of Kea.

           Here is what happen upon capturing a Kea:
1. Nick would hand the bird to me and preapre his equipment. I would grab it under the beak and secure its head and grab its legs. Depending on its degree of shock, the bird would or would not poop on my socks.
2. Nick would clamp 3 aluminium bands of 3 different colors on its legs- 2 on one leg and 1 on the other. This was done for the department of conservation and allowed for hundreds of combinations with which to identify the birds for monitoring.
3. Nick would take measurements of the bird's beak length and width, and head size. Male or female was determined by beak size (males having larger beaks)
4. I would place the bird on its back and nick would take blood from a vien under the bird's wing at the "elbow". This blood will be analyzed for his research and for disease evaluation.
5. Nick would pluck quail feathers from the bird (containing lots of cells to be analyzed for disease information) located under heavy down feathers on the chest of the bird (I now understand why they dont get cold).
6. The bird would be weighed with a spring weight, hanging from the noose.
7. The bird would be let go, dwaddle around looking at us like "what just happened, where am I? Is this heaven?" and then scamper away and fly off.

       Overall the trip was amazing. I learned very much, got to live in a gorgeous valley for 5 days, made some great new friends, got to hang with Kea birds and help with conservation efforts. During the day, when the Kea were away, we went on awesome day hikes, as most of the Kea-catching was done from 6-10am and 6-9pm. It did help that transportation, lodging, and dinners, were paid for by Nick's reasearch money, but that was just a bonus, hehe. I was plopped back into reality when I arrived back in Dunedin, and have been getting some work day, though I have been hearing Kea calls in my head all day. Here are some pictures I have taken to help share the experience. Enjoy, cheers, and love to all!

Matthew



Road to Rees Valley

Beautiful waterfall on the way to Shelter Rock Hut

These two are of Rosie holding Kea

The yellow around the eye and on the beak show that it is a juvenile


Next few are of myself holding Kea for photograph identification

Naturally, juveniles were much easier to catch- curiosity always caught the Kea



The valley where we stayed for 5 days


Waterfall on the mountain side

Climbing up toward the peaks

Nice view south down valley

My favorite rock face in the valley during sunset




Kea soaring


Nice shot of Nick during sunrise on the prowl for Kea

Earnslaw Glacier



Kea just after release- you can see the yellow and red bands on his left leg


Nick sneaking up on a group of Kea

Good shot of the last Kea we caught, Rosie in the background

Scene from the trail to the valley



Full moon on Sunday night that lit up the entire valley
Bridge to Shelter Rock Hut
Nick sneaking up on an unsuspecting Kea
The noose device used to catch the Kea, and the speaker that was used to send Kea calls through the valley
Posing atop the mountainside, Earnslaw Glacier in background
Nick climbing down to the Valley after day hike- Kea catching bamboo stick in pack